Courtney Zheng: 5 Steps to Refined Beauty in 2026

The Courtney Zheng Collection is all about achieving a truly polished look by combining advanced techniques with solid, foundational waxing principles. Here’s a guide to my exact steps for giving clients an incredible experience, focusing on both the art of removing hair and completely enhancing the skin.

1. Initial Consultation and Skin Analysis

The start of any successful aesthetic treatment, especially with the Courtney Zheng approach, is a deep-dive client consultation. This is the critical diagnostic step. I always begin by going over the client’s intake form, looking specifically for any listed allergies, sensitivities, current medications, or recent skincare treatments like retinoid use or chemical peels. A client on a strong retinoid, for instance, is an absolute no-go for waxing in that area because the risk of lifting the skin is just too high. After that, I do a detailed visual and tactile skin analysis under a magnifying lamp, checking for dehydration, oiliness, inflammation, or any red flags like active acne, sunburn, or a damaged skin barrier. For facial waxing, you have to assess the hair’s growth patterns, its density, and direction. This information literally dictates your entire waxing strategy. Document everything you find in the client’s file. It’s not just good practice. A 2024 survey from the Professional Beauty Association (PBA) found that 88% of clients value personalized consultations, which directly affects how happy they’re and whether they come back.

Pro Tip: Digital Skin Mapping

If you can, get your hands on a digital skin analysis device like the Observ 520x. This kind of tech uses different light modes to show you what’s going on *under* the skin, things like hidden hyperpigmentation, vascular issues, and oil production that you can’t see with the naked eye. This gives you tangible data to discuss with your client and helps you build a much more targeted treatment plan.

Common Mistakes: Rushing the Consultation

Skipping or rushing the consultation is the fastest way to get mediocre results and maybe even cause an adverse reaction. If you don’t have a complete picture of the client’s skin, you’re just guessing with products and techniques, which can easily lead to irritation, breakouts, or actual injury. You should always block out at least 15 minutes for any first-time consultation.

2. Preparation of the Treatment Area

Proper prep is non-negotiable if you want a clean, effective wax and want to keep discomfort to a minimum. Start by making sure the client is comfortable on a clean, disinfected treatment bed. For facial waxing, a reclined position with good head support is perfect. First, cleanse the skin completely with a gentle, pH-balanced pre-wax cleanser. I personally prefer a formula with witch hazel or tea tree oil for its antiseptic qualities, something like the Lycon Pre-Wax Skin Cleanser. Use a cotton pad and make sure every bit of makeup, oil, and surface gunk is gone. Let the skin air dry, or you can gently blot it with a clean tissue. Then, you’ll apply a thin layer of pre-wax oil or powder, which depends on the wax you’re about to use. For hard wax, a pre-wax oil creates a barrier so the wax only grabs the hair, not the skin which makes it much less painful. For soft wax, a light dusting of a talc-free powder will absorb any extra moisture, helping the wax stick to the hair. The whole point is to create the perfect surface for the wax to do its job.

Pro Tip: Temperature Acclimation

Here’s a small trick: after cleansing, let the client’s skin adjust to the room temperature for a couple of minutes. This helps the pores close up a bit, which makes the waxing process more efficient and less likely to cause irritation. A slightly cooler skin surface also gives the wax a better grip.

Common Mistakes: Inadequate Cleansing

Leaving makeup or oil on the skin will seriously compromise how well the wax adheres, which leads to missed hairs, breakage, and possible irritation. It’s also just plain unhygienic. If a client comes in with heavy makeup or has very oily skin, always double-cleanse.

3. Precision Hard Wax Application for Brows and Upper Lip

The Courtney Zheng Collection is big on using hard wax for sensitive facial areas, and for good reason: it’s far better at shrink-wrapping the hair without yanking on the skin. For brows, you need a high-quality, pliable hard wax made for sensitive skin. Heat your wax to the temperature the manufacturer suggests, which is usually around 120-130°F (49-54°C). You must always test the wax temperature on your own inner wrist before it ever touches the client. For brow shaping:
1. Map the Brows: Grab a brow pencil and mark the start, arch, and end points, making sure to follow the client’s natural bone structure. This gives you a clear roadmap.
2. Apply Wax in Small Sections: Using a small, flat applicator stick, lay down a thin, even layer of hard wax in the same direction the hair grows. Stick to small, manageable sections and work precisely around the lines you drew. Make sure you create a slightly thicker “lip” on the edge for an easy pull.
3. Allow to Set: Let the wax cool down and harden for a few seconds. It should be pliable but not sticky to the touch.
4. Remove Against Growth: Hold the skin taut with one hand. With your other hand, grab that thicker edge of the wax and pull it off quickly, keeping your pull parallel to the skin and going against the direction of hair growth. Never pull up.
5. Repeat as Needed: Work your way across the brow methodically, removing small sections at a time until you’ve got the shape you want. For upper lip waxing:
1. Stretch the Skin: Have the client pucker their lips slightly, or you can gently stretch the upper lip area taut with your fingers.
2. Apply Wax: Apply a thin, even layer of hard wax. You might need to do it in two sections (one for each side of the philtrum), following the hair growth direction.
3. Remove: Let the wax set, then pull it off fast against the direction of growth, always keeping that skin pulled taut.

Pro Tip: Sectional Waxing

When you’re working on the face, especially brows, you have to work in tiny, precise sections. This gives you so much more control, makes it less uncomfortable for the client, and cuts down the risk of accidentally ripping out hair you wanted to keep. Think of it as sculpting, not just removing.

Common Mistakes: Over-waxing and Improper Pulling

Going over the same area repeatedly is a recipe for sparse brows or major irritation. Always be conservative and just tweeze any stray hairs after you’re done waxing. Pulling the wrong way (upwards instead of parallel to the skin) causes a lot of unnecessary pain and can even lead to bruising or lifted skin.

4. Advanced Facial Techniques: Dermaplaning and Microcurrent (Optional but Recommended)

After waxing, you can really take the results to the next level by adding some advanced facial techniques, which fits right in with the Courtney Zheng Collection’s whole-picture approach. These add-ons aren’t required, but they make a huge difference in skin texture and tone.

Dermaplaning

Dermaplaning is a type of physical exfoliation where you use a sterile surgical scalpel to gently scrape off the top layer of dead skin cells along with the vellus hair (or peach fuzz). It instantly makes the skin look smoother and brighter and helps products penetrate much deeper. 1. Cleanse and Degrease: Cleanse the skin again and make absolutely sure it’s dry and free of any oils. A degreasing solution works well here.
2. Hold Skin Taut: Hold a section of the skin taut with your non-dominant hand.
3. Use a Sterile Blade: With a sterile, single-use #10 or #10R dermaplaning blade held at a 45-degree angle, gently glide it across the skin in short, upward strokes. Work in small sections with consistent pressure. As soon as you’re done, dispose of the blade in a sharps container.
4. Remove Debris: Use a piece of sterile gauze to gently wipe away the skin cells and hair you’ve removed.

Microcurrent Therapy

Microcurrent is a non-invasive treatment that sends low-level electrical currents into the skin to stimulate the facial muscles, which helps kickstart collagen and elastin production. The result is a visibly lifted and more toned look. 1. Apply Conductive Gel: Slather a generous layer of a water-based conductive gel over the entire treatment area.
2. Use Microcurrent Device: Grab your professional microcurrent device and follow the specific protocols for lifting and toning. This usually means gliding two probes over the skin in upward and outward motions to target certain muscle groups. You’ll need to check your device’s manual for the exact settings, but a common range for facial lifting is 300-500 microamperes for about 10-15 minutes.
3. Remove Gel: Once the treatment is over, use a warm, damp towel to remove any leftover conductive gel.

Pro Tip: Layering Treatments

When you’re combining dermaplaning and microcurrent, always do the dermaplaning first. It just makes sense. By getting rid of the vellus hair and dead skin, you create a perfectly smooth surface that allows the microcurrent probes to glide more easily and helps the current get where it needs to go.

Common Mistakes: Improper Dermaplaning Angle or Pressure

Using the wrong blade angle (either too steep or too flat) or pushing too hard during dermaplaning can cause nicks, irritation, or an uneven exfoliation. You have to maintain a consistent, light touch and stick to that 45-degree angle. For microcurrent, being cheap with the conductive gel is a big mistake. It can cause uncomfortable zapping sensations and won’t be as effective.

5. Soothing and Aftercare Application

What you do after the treatment is just as important as the waxing itself. This is the phase for calming the skin, stopping irritation before it starts, and making sure the results last. 1. Apply Soothing Serum: Right after waxing and any other treatments, apply a calming serum with ingredients like aloe vera, chamomile, or calendula. I suggest using products made specifically for post-wax care, like the Ingrown Go Solution Lotion, which is great for its anti-inflammatory effects. Gently massage it in until it’s absorbed.
2. Cool Compress (Optional): If the skin is super sensitive or looking a little red, a cool compress can bring immediate relief.
3. Apply Sun Protection: Always finish with a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher, even if the client says they’re going straight home. Skin that’s just been exfoliated or waxed is extremely vulnerable to sun damage. I prefer a mineral-based sunscreen with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide for sensitive skin.
4. Educate the Client: Give your client clear, simple aftercare instructions, both by telling them and by handing them a written copy. Advise them to avoid hot showers, saunas, intense exercise, and direct sun for at least 24-48 hours. Tell them to stick to gentle cleansing and moisturizing and to lay off any harsh exfoliants or retinoids for a few days. And make sure they understand how important it is to exfoliate (after 48 hours) to prevent ingrown hairs.

Pro Tip: Personalized Aftercare Kits

I like to put together small aftercare kits that clients can buy on their way out. They might have a travel-sized soothing serum, a gentle cleanser, and a sample of SPF. This improves the client’s experience, gives you an extra revenue stream, and makes sure they’re using the right products at home.

Common Mistakes: Neglecting Aftercare Advice

Clients almost always forget verbal instructions, so providing written aftercare guidance is essential. Also, if you don’t recommend specific products, you’re leaving clients to guess, and they might end up using something from the drugstore that just irritates their skin. You have to take a strong position here: proper aftercare is mandatory.

6. Follow-Up and Maintenance Schedule

The client’s experience doesn’t end when they walk out of your room. Setting up a follow-up and maintenance schedule is how you get long-term client satisfaction and keep them coming back, which is a core part of the Courtney Zheng care philosophy. 1. Schedule Next Appointment: Before your client leaves, recommend and book their next appointment. For most facial waxing, a 3-4 week gap is perfect for catching the hair in its anagen (growth) phase, which gives you smoother results over time. For advanced facials, the schedule depends on the treatment and the client’s goals, but it’s often every 4-6 weeks.
2. Check-In: I think it’s a great touch to send a quick follow-up text or email 24-48 hours after their appointment just to check in, see how their skin feels, and answer any questions. It shows you care and reinforces that you’re committed to their results.
3. Adjust Protocol: At their next appointment, you can adjust your treatment protocol based on their feedback and the results you see. A client’s skin changes with the seasons, age, and their lifestyle, so you have to be flexible. For example, a client might need a gentler wax formula in the winter when their skin is drier.
4. Introduce New Services: Once you’ve built a good rapport, you can gently suggest other services that would complement what they’re already doing. Maybe an eyebrow lamination after they’ve been consistently waxing, or a hydrating facial to boost their overall skin health.

Pro Tip: Loyalty Programs

Start a loyalty program that rewards clients for rebooking consistently or for sending referrals your way. For example, you could offer a complimentary brow tint after five consecutive brow wax appointments. This gives them an incentive to stick to their regimen with you and helps build a sense of community.

Common Mistakes: One-Off Thinking

If you treat each appointment as a standalone event and don’t think about a long-term plan, you’re missing a huge opportunity. Without a clear maintenance schedule, clients are way more likely to let their results go and end up trying another studio. Your goal is to build a relationship, not just process a transaction. The Courtney Zheng approach, which pairs precise waxing with advanced skin treatments, is a reliable path to consistently amazing results. By following these detailed steps, you can build a loyal group of clients who trust your skills and your dedication to their skin’s health and beauty. Remember that skincare beyond aftercare is what keeps clients happy for the long haul. Achieving client bliss means putting their well-being first at every single step. And remember that aftercare is key for building trust and avoiding those common post-waxing problems.